What size tank does an adult bearded dragon need?

40 gallons is the bare minimum; I recommend 75 gallons or a 4x2-foot footprint. Dragons want horizontal floor space to roam and a temperature gradient, both of which a cramped tank can't provide.

What temperatures should a bearded dragon enclosure be?

A basking spot of 95-110°F (hotter for juveniles), a cool side of 75-85°F, and a nighttime drop to 65-75°F. Always measure with a digital probe or temp gun - never guess from the bulb wattage.

How often do I replace the UVB bulb?

Every 6-12 months, even if it still glows. UVB output fades long before the visible light does, and weak UVB leads to metabolic bone disease. Mark the install date on the bulb.

Do I really need to dust insects with calcium?

Yes. Nearly all feeder insects are phosphorus-heavy, so dust with plain calcium most feedings and add a D3/multivitamin on a schedule. Combined with good UVB, this is the single biggest defense against metabolic bone disease.

What humidity should a bearded dragon have?

30-40%. They're desert animals - chronically high humidity invites respiratory infection, while too-low can cause shedding trouble. Use a hygrometer and rely on ventilation rather than misting.

What are the first signs my bearded dragon is sick?

Lethargy, loss of appetite, sunken eyes, wrinkled skin (dehydration), soft or swollen limbs (MBD), wheezing or mucus (respiratory infection), and no bowel movements (impaction). Catching these early is everything - see an exotics vet.

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Bearded Dragons

10 Essential Bearded Dragon Care Tips for a Healthy Dragon

By Matt Goren · Updated June 26, 2026

I've kept bearded dragons long enough to know that almost every health problem I've seen traces back to a husbandry shortcut - weak UVB, a tank that's too cold, or skipped calcium. Beardies are hardy and forgiving right up until they aren't. Get these ten things right and you've prevented the vast majority of what sends dragons to the vet.

1. Give them a big enough enclosure

Minimum 40 gallons for an adult, but I push everyone toward 75 gallons or a 4x2-foot footprint. Dragons are ground-dwellers that want horizontal room to walk, plus the space to build a proper hot-to-cool gradient. Use a glass or PVC enclosure with a secure, ventilated screen top. Hatchlings can start smaller but will outgrow it fast.

2. Nail the temperature gradient

This is non-negotiable for an ectotherm that can't make its own heat:

Basking spot: 95-110°F (run the hotter end for juveniles).
Cool side: 75-85°F so they can thermoregulate.
Nighttime: allow a drop to 65-75°F.

Use a real basking bulb, never a heat rock (those cause belly burns). And measure with a digital probe thermometer or an infrared temp gun at the actual basking surface - don't trust bulb wattage or guesswork.

3. Provide strong UVB - and replace it on schedule

UVB lets a dragon synthesize vitamin D3, which it needs to absorb calcium. Without it, bones soften and metabolic bone disease sets in. Use a quality linear T5 UVB tube spanning about two-thirds of the enclosure, run 10-12 hours a day on a timer. Replace the bulb every 6-12 months even if it still lights up - UV output dies long before the visible glow does. Write the install date on the bulb in marker.

4. Keep humidity in the desert range

Target 30-40% humidity and verify it with a hygrometer. These are arid-zone animals; chronic high humidity invites respiratory infections, while too-dry can cause incomplete sheds. Favor good ventilation and a properly sized water dish over frequent misting, which spikes humidity unpredictably.

5. Use a safe substrate

Skip loose particulate substrates like sand or wood chips for dragons that might ingest them - impaction is a real risk, especially in juveniles. I use non-particle options: reptile carpet, tile, or simple paper towel for young dragons. Easy to clean, and nothing they can swallow.

6. Feed an age-appropriate diet

Bearded dragons are omnivores whose ratio flips as they grow:

Juveniles: ~70-80% insects, the rest greens. They're growing and need protein.
Adults: mostly leafy greens (collard, mustard, dandelion) with insects a few times a week.

Staple feeders are roaches and crickets; mealworms are occasional (hard chitin), and waxworms/superworms are fatty treats only. For a clean, non-climbing, easy-to-digest staple insect I keep discoid roaches on hand. Limit fruit to 5-10% of the diet because of the sugar. Never feed prey wider than the space between the dragon's eyes.

7. Supplement calcium correctly

Here's the rule that prevents the most common serious illness: nearly every feeder insect is phosphorus-heavy, with a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio that's wrong for a dragon. You fix it with supplements:

Plain calcium: dust feeders most feedings.
Calcium with D3 / multivitamin: add on a lighter schedule (roughly 2-3x/week for juveniles, 1-2x/week for adults - confirm with your vet).
Gut-load feeders 24-48 hours before with greens and veg.

Calcium plus good UVB is your one-two punch against metabolic bone disease.

8. Keep them hydrated

Desert origin doesn't mean they don't need water. Provide a shallow, clean water bowl (refreshed daily), offer high-moisture foods, and bathe or lightly mist occasionally - dragons absorb some moisture and many will drink during a soak. A hydrating feeder like hornworms helps too. Watch for dehydration: wrinkled or sagging skin, sunken eyes, lethargy.

9. Handle to build trust, and read the body language

Bearded dragons tolerate and often enjoy handling, but trust is earned. Let a new dragon settle for a week first. Approach from the side, never from above (that reads as a predator). Support the whole body - chest and back legs. Keep early sessions short and build up. Learn the signals: a puffed black beard, hissing, or frantic wriggling means stop; a calm, relaxed dragon will sit and explore. Daily gentle contact and the occasional hand-fed treat go a long way.

10. Stay clean and watch for early warning signs

Spot-clean waste and uneaten food daily; deep-clean the whole enclosure with a reptile-safe disinfectant monthly. A clean enclosure prevents bacterial and parasite problems - and the cleaning routine doubles as a daily health check. Know the warning signs and act early:

Metabolic bone disease: soft/swollen limbs, tremors, jaw deformity.
Respiratory infection: wheezing, mucus, labored breathing.
Impaction: no bowel movements, bloating, lethargy.
Parasites: weight loss despite eating, runny stool.
Mouth rot / eye infection: swelling, discharge, a held-shut eye.

When something looks off, get to an exotics vet promptly. The Merck Veterinary Manual's reptile section is a good non-commercial reference for recognizing these conditions, but it's a supplement to a vet visit, not a substitute.

Do these ten things consistently and a bearded dragon will reward you with 10-15 years of one of the most personable reptiles you can keep.

Go deeper on feeding with my guides to discoid roaches as a staple feeder and feeding hornworms for hydration.

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