How Many Discoid Roaches to Feed Your Reptile: A Keeper's Portion Guide by Species, Size, and Age

"How many do I feed?" is the question I get more than any other about discoid roaches (Blaberus discoidalis), and it's the one most care sheets answer badly. They throw out a single number — "5 to 10 a day" — as if a hatchling crested gecko and an adult savannah monitor eat the same way. They don't. The honest answer is that the right number is a function of species, size, age, activity level, and health, and once you understand how those five levers move, you can size a portion for any insectivore you'll ever keep without me handing you a chart for each one.

I've fed discoids to a lot of different animals over the years — bearded dragons, leopard and crested geckos, blue tongue skinks, big frogs, a tegu — and the colony makes that easy because it produces every size from pinhead nymphs to two-inch adults at once. That's the real superpower of feeding off a discoid colony: one feeder species covers your whole collection, and you just match the size to the animal.

This guide is the complete portioning playbook. I'll give you concrete starting numbers by species and life stage, the sizing rule that prevents choking and impaction, how to read your own animal's body condition to dial the number in, feeding schedules, the signs of under- and overfeeding, how to gut-load and — critically — why you must dust with calcium even though half the internet (including the article this guide replaces) will tell you discoids have a "balanced" calcium ratio. They don't. Let's get into it.

Start here: there is no single daily number

If you take one idea from this guide, take this one: the correct number of discoid roaches is the number that keeps your specific animal at a healthy body condition, fed on an appropriate schedule, with correctly sized prey. Everything else is just how you find that number.

Five things move the dial:

1. ◆Species. A bearded dragon, a leopard gecko, and a Pacman frog have wildly different metabolisms, prey-drive, and adult diets. Some species are insect-only their whole lives; others (dragons, skinks) shift heavily toward plants as adults.
2. ◆Size. Bigger animal, bigger appetite — and bigger appropriate prey, which means fewer roaches per meal because each roach carries more food.
3. ◆Age and growth stage. This is the biggest lever after species. Growing juveniles eat protein constantly; adults need far less and get fat if you feed them like babies.
4. ◆Activity level. A lizard in a big, enriched, warm enclosure that ranges and basks burns more than one parked in a small tub. More movement, more food.
5. ◆Health and condition. Underweight or recovering animals may need more frequent small meals; obese ones need their portions cut. A gravid female eats differently than a fasting one.

Below I'll give you real starting numbers for each common animal. Treat them as anchors, not laws — the calibration method in the next section is how you turn an anchor into the right number for your animal.

The method: feed to appetite (juveniles) or to a count (adults), then read body condition

Here's the framework I actually use, and it works for any insectivore.

For fast-growing juveniles, feed appropriately sized roaches to appetite within a time window — typically 10-15 minutes per sitting. Offer roaches, let the animal eat what it will in that window, then remove stragglers. Growing reptiles are protein-hungry and it's genuinely hard to overfeed a healthy, fast-growing juvenile this way, as long as the prey is correctly sized. Count what they eat so you have a baseline, but appetite leads.

For adults, flip it: feed a counted portion on a fixed schedule, not to appetite. Adults of most species will happily overeat into obesity if you let them, so you decide the number and the calendar, not the animal. Start at the anchor number for the species, then adjust based on body condition over the following weeks.

Then read the body, which is the feedback loop that makes the whole thing self-correcting:

• ◆Visible hip bones, spine, or ribs, a thin tail base → feed more or more often.
• ◆Fat bulging at the tail base, a distended belly, jowly fat pads, sluggishness → feed less or less often.
• ◆Steady weight, good muscle tone, active and alert → you've found the number. Hold it.

A cheap digital kitchen scale (grams) is the best feeding tool you can buy. Weigh weekly for juveniles and monthly for adults, log it, and the trend tells you more than any care-sheet number ever will. Numbers get you in the ballpark; the scale and the mirror keep you there.

The sizing rule: never longer than the space between the eyes

Before quantity comes size, because a wrong-sized roach is dangerous regardless of how many you offer. The rule every keeper should tattoo on the inside of their eyelids:

No feeder should be longer than the space between the animal's eyes.

A roach larger than that gap risks choking and, more insidiously, gut impaction — undigested prey that blocks the digestive tract, which is an emergency and disproportionately kills juveniles and small geckos. When in doubt, size down; two correctly sized roaches are always safer than one that's too big.

Discoids make this easy because a colony offers a continuous size range:

One more practical note that the source article gets backwards and is worth correcting: discoids do not climb smooth vertical walls — glass and smooth plastic defeat them. That's a feeding advantage. Drop them in a smooth-sided bowl in the enclosure and they can't climb out, which keeps the meal contained and easy for your animal to hunt instead of scattering into the substrate. (The only discoids that escape anything are pinhead nymphs slipping through coarse vents on a breeding bin — a colony-containment issue, not a feeding one.)

How many discoid roaches by species

These are my working anchor numbers. Sizes refer to the table above. Adjust to body condition using the method above.

Bearded dragons

Bearded dragons are the classic "feed a ton as a baby, cut way back as an adult" reptile, and getting that transition right is most of beardie husbandry.

• ◆Hatchlings (0-3 months): This is the protein phase. Offer small nymphs 2-3 times a day, as many as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute window each sitting — that often lands around 20-40 small roaches total per day. It sounds like a lot; it should be. They're growing explosively. Dust with calcium at nearly every feeding.
• ◆Juveniles (3-12 months): Scale roach size up to medium nymphs and frequency down to 1-2 insect feedings a day, still roughly to appetite, on the order of 20-40 insects daily total trending downward as they grow. Start introducing and increasing greens.
• ◆Adults (12+ months): The big shift. Adults are roughly 80% plants / 20% insects. Feed 3-5 large nymphs or adult discoids every other day (some keepers do a small daily insect portion, others 3-4 days a week) — and make leafy greens and vegetables the daily staple. Overfeeding insects to adult dragons is the #1 cause of obese, fatty-liver beardies. Resist it.

Dust juveniles' insects with calcium nearly every feeding and use a calcium-plus-D3 / multivitamin on the schedule your supplement and UVB setup call for.

Leopard geckos

Leos are insectivores their whole lives (no plants), so insects are the entire diet — but they're small and prone to obesity, so portions are modest.

• ◆Hatchlings/juveniles (under ~6 months): Small nymphs, 4-6 per feeding, daily. Size strictly to the between-the-eyes rule — leopard gecko heads are small and impaction is a real juvenile killer.
• ◆Adults (6+ months): 4-6 appropriately sized roaches every 2-3 days. Adults do not need feeding every day, and daily feeding plus their natural tendency to store fat in the tail makes them obese fast. A healthy leo tail is plump but not ballooning; a tail wider than the neck with fat creeping up the body means cut back.

Dust per a standard leopard gecko schedule — calcium most feedings, D3/multivitamin per your supplement's instructions, especially important if you run low or no UVB.

Crested geckos

Cresteds are the special case: they thrive on a complete commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) as their staple, and insects are a supplement, not the main event.

• ◆All ages: Offer 2-4 small, appropriately sized discoid nymphs once or twice a week as enrichment and extra protein, on top of CGD. Juveniles can take the higher end and slightly more often during growth; adults the lower end.
• ◆Crested geckos genuinely don't need insects if they're on a good CGD, but most relish the hunt and benefit from the variety. Dust the roaches with calcium before offering. Don't let insects crowd out the CGD — that's where keepers go wrong with this species.

Blue tongue skinks

Blue tongues are omnivores with a big appetite and a strong tendency toward obesity, so portion discipline matters.

• ◆Juveniles: A higher protein ratio while growing — roughly 50% protein / 50% plant matter, fed daily or near-daily. A meal might be several medium nymphs to a couple of adult discoids, sized to the skink, plus chopped veg/greens.
• ◆Adults: Shift toward ~40% protein / 60% plant, fed 2-3 times a week. An insect portion might be 3-6 adult discoids as part of a larger mixed meal that includes vegetables, greens, and other appropriate proteins. Discoids are an excellent protein component here — soft-bodied and substantial. (If you're weighing feeders for a skink specifically, see my comparison of discoid roaches vs. giant mealworms for blue tongue skinks.)

Blue tongues get fat quietly. Watch for fat rolls behind the front legs and a belly that drags — both mean cut the protein and the frequency.

Frogs and toads (Pacman frogs, large toads)

Big terrestrial amphibians are ambush eaters with no off switch — they'll eat to dangerous obesity if you let them, so the keeper controls the portion completely.

• ◆Juveniles: Smaller, more frequent — 2-3 appropriately sized roaches every 1-2 days, sized well under the frog's mouth width.
• ◆Adult Pacman frogs / large toads: 2-4 large nymphs or adult discoids every 3-5 days. Adult Pacmans especially are sit-and-wait predators that get obese fast; a slightly hungry frog is a healthy frog. Watch body condition — a frog that looks like a smooth balloon with no neck definition is overfed.

Dust amphibian feeders with calcium; amphibians are very prone to metabolic bone disease and have specific supplement needs, so follow species-specific guidance on D3 and frequency.

Monitors and tegus

Large, fast-growing carnivores. Here discoids are a supplement to a varied carnivore diet (whole prey, appropriate proteins), not the whole meal — a single adult discoid is a snack to a big monitor.

• ◆Juveniles: Growing monitors and tegus eat a lot and often — discoids can be offered in quantity (10-20+ adults) several times a week as part of a varied diet alongside other proteins.
• ◆Adults: Discoids become an enrichment/variety item; large adults are better served by appropriately sized whole prey and bulk proteins, with roaches as a supplement. Feed adults less frequently and watch for obesity, which is rampant in captive monitors and tegus.

Because these animals eat such volume, discoids are most useful for them as juveniles or as a varied-diet component rather than a sole staple.

Quick-reference portion table

Anchors only — calibrate to your animal's body condition.

When you're ready to stock up or seed a colony so you always have the right sizes on hand, All Angles Creatures sells healthy, well-started discoid roaches in a range of sizes for both feeding off and starting a breeding bin.

The five factors, in depth

The anchor numbers above already bake in species, size, and age. Here's how to think about all five factors so you can adjust intelligently rather than guessing.

Species and natural diet

A species' wild diet is your north star. Strict insectivores (leopard geckos) eat insects their whole lives and need consistent, well-supplemented insect portions. Omnivores (bearded dragons, blue tongue skinks) shift from protein-heavy as juveniles to plant-heavy as adults — feed them like insectivores their whole life and you get obese, gout-prone animals. Frogs are pure carnivores with no satiety brake. Big monitors and tegus need volume and variety. Match the ratio and frequency to the species, not just the count.

Size of the animal

Bigger animals need more total food, but here's the counterintuitive part: a bigger animal eats bigger prey, and bigger prey means fewer individual roaches per meal because each one delivers more. An adult bearded dragon eating 4 large adult discoids may be getting more food than a juvenile eating 25 small nymphs. Don't fixate on the count — think in terms of total food volume relative to the animal's head and gut size.

Age and growth stage

The single biggest swing. Growing juveniles are protein factories — they eat frequently, near appetite, and you genuinely struggle to overfeed a healthy, correctly-sized-prey juvenile. Adults are the opposite: their growth has stopped, their caloric needs have dropped, and they will get fat if fed like babies. The most common feeding mistake across every species is failing to scale back when the animal becomes an adult. When growth slows, cut frequency and portion, and for omnivores, shift the ratio toward plants.

Activity level

An animal in a large, warm, enriched enclosure that ranges, climbs, and basks at proper temperatures burns more energy and can take more food than one in a small, cool setup. Cool animals also digest slower — an under-heated reptile fed a full portion may not even process it properly, leading to regurgitation or rot in the gut. Dial husbandry (temps, space, enrichment) in first; feeding amounts assume the animal is kept correctly.

Health and condition

Underweight or recovering animals often do better on smaller, more frequent meals than on big ones their system can't handle. Obese animals need portions and frequency cut — slowly, not by crash-fasting. Gravid females, animals coming out of brumation, and sick animals all have shifted needs. When an animal's condition or appetite changes sharply for no obvious husbandry reason, that's a vet conversation, not a feeding-chart one.

Feeding schedules: frequency tracks age

Quantity is half the equation; how often is the other half, and frequency is driven mostly by age.

• ◆Hatchlings/young juveniles: Daily, often multiple times a day for fast growers like baby bearded dragons. High metabolism, high growth, high demand.
• ◆Sub-adults: Daily to every other day as growth slows. Start tapering.
• ◆Adults: This is where species diverges most. Adult bearded dragons: insects every other day with daily greens. Adult leopard geckos: every 2-3 days. Adult blue tongue skinks: 2-3 times a week. Adult Pacman frogs: every 3-5 days. Adult crested geckos: insects only 1-2x a week atop CGD.

A few scheduling principles:

• ◆Match the clock to the animal. Diurnal baskers (dragons) eat best mid-morning after they've warmed up and can digest. Nocturnal animals (leos, cresteds) should be fed toward dusk/evening when they're active.
• ◆Digestion needs heat. Feed when the animal has access to its proper basking/ambient temps so it can actually process the meal. A cold reptile can't digest.
• ◆Respect brumation. Species that brumate eat far less or not at all during it — reduce and then stop feeding as they wind down, and don't offer food to a cold, brumating animal that can't digest it.
• ◆Consistency helps. A predictable routine reduces stress and lets you spot appetite changes immediately — a missed meal from a normally eager eater is useful early-warning information.

Signs you're feeding the wrong amount

Your animal's body is the ultimate feedback. Learn to read it.

Signs of underfeeding

• ◆Visible skeleton: ribs, spine, hip bones, or shoulder girdle showing through.
• ◆Thin tail base: in fat-storing species (leopard geckos especially) a skinny tail is a red flag — that's their pantry.
• ◆Lethargy and low energy: an underfed animal conserves energy and moves less.
• ◆Dehydration signs: sunken eyes, wrinkled/tenting skin, poor sheds — often paired with underfeeding.
• ◆Poor or stalled growth in juveniles, or weight loss on the scale.
• ◆Reduced hunting drive — paradoxically, chronically underfed animals can lose interest, compounding the problem.

The fix: more frequent small meals, verify husbandry (a cold animal "acts" underfed because it won't eat or digest), and weigh to confirm the trend before overcorrecting.

Signs of overfeeding

• ◆Fat deposits: bulging at the tail base, jowly fat pads behind the head/eyes, a belly that distends or drags, fat rolls behind the front legs (skinks).
• ◆Lethargy and reluctance to move: an obese animal is a sluggish one.
• ◆Retained sheds: often correlated with poor condition from overfeeding.
• ◆Unnaturally fast growth ("power feeding"): pushing juveniles to grow faster than natural stresses joints and organs and shortens lifespan — bigger-faster is not healthier.

The fix: cut portion size and frequency (gradually), shift omnivores toward more plants, and improve enclosure size/temps so the animal moves and burns more.

The health stakes

Both extremes carry serious consequences — metabolic bone disease (from calcium/D3 deficiency, which is why dusting is non-negotiable), organ damage and hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver) from chronic overfeeding, gout, impaction from oversized prey, and shortened lifespans on both ends. This is why "how many" actually matters: it's not pedantry, it's the difference between an animal that thrives for its full natural lifespan and one that doesn't. When body condition is sharply off and husbandry is right, see a reptile vet — the Merck Veterinary Manual's reptile nutrition section is a solid non-commercial reference on metabolic bone disease and reptile dietary requirements.

Nutrition: what's actually in a discoid (and the calcium myth)

Here's where I have to directly correct the source article and a lot of the wider internet, because getting this wrong can literally give your animal metabolic bone disease.

Discoid roaches are a genuinely excellent feeder on the macros:

• ◆Protein: roughly 20-24% by dry weight — high, and ideal for muscle, growth, and repair.
• ◆Fat: roughly 6-8% by dry weight — moderate and lean, far better than fatty feeders like waxworms or superworms for routine feeding.
• ◆Moisture: roughly 65-70% — good hydration contribution.
• ◆Soft, low-chitin body: easier to chew and digest than crickets or mealworms, which makes discoids gentle on juveniles, small geckos, and sensitive animals.

But here is the correction that matters most: discoids do NOT have a "balanced" or "favorable" 1:1 calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. That claim is wrong, and it's repeated all over the place. Like nearly every feeder insect, discoids are phosphorus-heavy — they contain substantially more phosphorus than calcium (an inverted Ca:P ratio). That matters because excess phosphorus actively interferes with calcium absorption, and calcium deficiency is what causes metabolic bone disease — soft, deformed bones, tremors, and death.

So:

You must dust discoid roaches with calcium. Gut-loading helps but does not fix the calcium gap. This is true no matter how well you keep your colony.

The one common feeder that is genuinely calcium-rich is black soldier fly larvae (BSFL) — they're the real exception with a naturally favorable calcium ratio. Discoids are not BSFL. Treat any care sheet (including the original of this very article) that calls discoids calcium-balanced as mistaken, and dust anyway. The dusting routine — plain calcium most feedings, calcium-plus-D3 or a multivitamin on the schedule your species and UVB setup require — is cheap insurance against the most common and most preventable killer in captive reptiles.

How discoids compare to other feeders

A staple feeder should be high protein, moderate fat, and easy to digest. Here's how the common options stack up (approximate, as-fed/typical figures — values swing with diet and source, but the relationships are reliable):

Reading the table as a keeper:

• ◆Discoids and dubia are nearly interchangeable nutritionally — both are great staples that need calcium dusting. Choose on legality (discoids are legal in Florida where dubia are restricted), availability, and breeding speed (dubia ramp a bit faster).
• ◆Superworms and mealworms are treats, not staples — that fat adds up and drives obesity.
• ◆Hornworms are mostly water — fantastic for hydration and tempting a picky eater, but they can't carry a diet on ~9% protein.
• ◆BSFL are the calcium play — the one feeder where the ratio works in your favor, useful to rotate in for extra calcium (but still small and best for juveniles/smaller species).
• ◆The winning move is a staple plus rotation: discoids as the backbone, hornworms for hydration, the occasional superworm or BSFL for variety — all correctly supplemented.

Gut-loading: building the nutrition into the feeder

Gut-loading is feeding your roaches well before they become a meal, so the nutrition in their gut transfers to your animal. The roach is essentially a delivery capsule — what it ate is what your pet eats. This is also your best lever to partially offset the calcium gap (though it does not replace dusting).

The window: load 24-48 hours before you feed off, and make sure the roaches are actively eating the good stuff the day before. A roach fed garbage and then offered immediately delivers garbage; a well-loaded one delivers real nutrition.

The gut-load menu:

• ◆Fresh produce: carrots, squash, sweet potato, apple, and especially calcium-rich leafy greens like collard greens, dandelion greens, and mustard greens. Greens with good calcium content are doubly valuable because they nudge the feeder's profile in the right direction.
• ◆A quality dry base: a commercial roach chow or a fortified gut-load product gives steady protein and is often enriched with the vitamins and minerals reptiles need. Keep this available in the colony at all times, not just before feeding off.
• ◆Clean hydration: water crystals or high-moisture produce. Never an open dish — nymphs drown.

What to avoid: heavy citrus and oranges (too acidic), spinach and broccoli (high oxalates/goitrogens that bind calcium — counterproductive when calcium is your whole concern), and anything salty, oily, processed, or pesticide-treated. Wash all produce. Pull uneaten produce before it molds.

Then dust and feed promptly. Gut-load → dust with calcium → feed off, while the nutrition is at peak. Doing the gut-load right and still dusting is the one-two punch that makes discoids a genuinely complete-feeling staple.

Supplementation: how to actually dust discoids

Since discoids are phosphorus-heavy, dusting is the step that turns a good macro feeder into a safe complete one. But "dust with calcium" is too vague to act on, so here's how I think about the three supplement types and how to schedule them.

• ◆Plain calcium (calcium carbonate, no D3). This is your workhorse. It directly counters the inverted Ca:P ratio. Used most often, and safe to use frequently because excess plain calcium without D3 is largely just passed rather than stored to toxic levels.
• ◆Calcium with D3. Vitamin D3 is what lets the animal absorb and use calcium. Animals with good UVB can synthesize their own D3, so they need supplemental D3 less often; animals with little or no UVB rely on dietary D3 and need it more regularly. D3 can be over-supplemented (it's fat-soluble and accumulates), so this one is scheduled, not constant.
• ◆Multivitamin. Covers vitamin A and other micronutrients gut-loading can miss. Used sparingly — typically once a week or less — because fat-soluble vitamins like A and D build up.

How to dust: put the harvested roaches in a cup or bag, add a light pinch of supplement, and gently swirl until the roaches carry a faint visible coating — like a light dusting of powdered sugar, not a snowball. Then feed promptly before the powder rubs off in the enclosure. Over-caking does more harm than good and can put animals off the food.

A sane default schedule (always defer to your specific supplement's instructions and your species' needs):

• ◆Juveniles with UVB: plain calcium at most feedings, calcium+D3 once or twice a week, multivitamin about once a week.
• ◆Adults with good UVB: plain calcium 2-3 feedings a week, calcium+D3 once a week or less, multivitamin every 1-2 weeks.
• ◆Animals with little/no UVB: lean harder on calcium+D3 (it's now their main D3 source) — but get UVB sorted, because it's the better long-term answer for most diurnal species.

The point: dusting isn't optional garnish for discoids, it's the mechanism that prevents the most common preventable disease in captive reptiles. Build it into every feed-off.

Getting a reluctant reptile to take discoids

Sometimes the problem isn't how many — it's that the animal won't take them at all yet, usually because it's used to crickets or mealworms. Discoids are worth the switch (cleaner, quieter, softer, more nutritious), and most animals come around.

• ◆Use movement. Discoids are less frantic than crickets, and some reptiles key on motion. Offer with feeding tongs and give the roach a little wiggle to trigger the prey response, or drop it in a smooth dish where it scuttles.
• ◆Feed when genuinely hungry. Skip a meal or two before introducing the new feeder, and feed at the animal's natural active/feeding time of day.
• ◆Size down first. A smaller nymph is less intimidating and easier to grab than a big adult for an animal trying something new.
• ◆Mix during transition. Offer discoids alongside the familiar feeder, gradually shifting the ratio toward discoids over a couple of weeks.
• ◆Be patient. A few refusals is normal for a new feeder; a healthy reptile won't starve itself in the short term. Keep offering and most convert within a week or two.

Common feeding mistakes (and the fixes)

These are the errors I see over and over, condensed:

• ◆Believing discoids are calcium-balanced and skipping the dust. The big one. They're phosphorus-heavy; dust with calcium, always. Skipping it is the express lane to metabolic bone disease.
• ◆Feeding adults like juveniles. Failing to scale back portion and frequency when the animal matures is the top cause of obesity across every species. When growth slows, cut back and (for omnivores) shift toward plants.
• ◆Oversized prey. Ignoring the between-the-eyes rule risks choking and impaction, especially in juveniles and small geckos. Size down when unsure.
• ◆Skipping or rushing the gut-load. A feeder is only as good as what's in it. Load 24-48 hours ahead.
• ◆Feeding wild-caught roaches. Pesticides, parasites, pathogens. Only feed captive-bred feeders from a clean source — never anything you found outside.
• ◆Feeding a single feeder forever. Even a great staple benefits from rotation. Build variety in.
• ◆Poor feeder storage. Roaches kept too damp, too hot, or too crowded get stressed and unhealthy, and unhealthy feeders make unhealthy reptiles. Keep your holding/colony bin clean and correctly conditioned. (For the full colony setup — heat, humidity, escape-proofing, breeding — see my complete discoid roach keeping and breeding playbook.)
• ◆Feeding a cold animal. Reptiles need proper temps to digest. Fix husbandry before blaming the food.

Putting it together: a simple feeding routine

Here's the whole thing as a repeatable loop, regardless of which animal you keep:

1. ◆Identify your animal's anchor from the species section — its appropriate size, amount, and frequency for its current life stage.
2. ◆Gut-load the colony 24-48 hours ahead with produce, greens, and dry chow; confirm they're eating it.
3. ◆Harvest the right size — never longer than the space between your animal's eyes.
4. ◆Dust with calcium (and D3/multivitamin on schedule). Always, because discoids are phosphorus-heavy.
5. ◆Feed off at the right time of day, into a smooth-sided dish the roaches can't climb out of, on the right schedule for the animal's age.
6. ◆Read body condition weekly (juveniles) or monthly (adults), weigh on a gram scale, and adjust the number up or down to hold a healthy weight.
7. ◆Rotate variety in — hornworms for hydration, the occasional superworm or BSFL — so the staple isn't the entire diet.

Do that and "how many discoid roaches?" stops being a mystery number you look up and becomes something you simply know for your animal, because you're reading the animal instead of a chart. Discoids make the whole system easy: one colony, every size, soft-bodied and protein-rich, legal where dubia aren't, and clean and quiet to keep. Size it, dust it, schedule it, and watch the body — that's the entire game.

New to discoids? Start with my complete guide to keeping discoid roaches alive and the full discoid cockroach care, habitat, and breeding guide, or browse the whole exotic-animals feeder library for hornworms, superworms, silkworms, and the rest.