Powder Orange Isopods: A Beginner's Complete Care & Breeding Guide

I've kept isopod cultures running alongside my feeder colonies for years, and Powder Orange isopods (Porcellionides pruinosus "Powder Orange") are the ones I hand to beginners who want to actually see something happen. They're bright pumpkin-orange, they're constantly on the move, and they breed so fast that within a season you've gone from a tiny starter cup to a thriving, self-running colony. They make an excellent bioactive cleanup crew and a steady supply of small feeders at the same time.

But there's one thing that trips up almost everyone coming from tropical isopods or from a "keep it humid" care sheet: Powder Oranges want it drier and far more ventilated than most isopods. Treat them like a rainforest species — seal the box, soak the substrate, skip the airflow — and you'll watch a fast-breeding powerhouse turn into a moldy, mite-ridden disappointment. Get the ventilation and the moisture gradient right, and they basically run themselves.

This is the complete guide: what they actually are, the habitat build that suits this species specifically, the moisture-and-airflow logic that decides everything, diet and calcium, the breeding explosion, using them as a cleanup crew and as feeders, a maintenance rhythm, and a troubleshooting section for when a colony stalls. Read it once, set the culture up the way powder isopods actually want, and you'll be splitting it into new boxes before you know it.

What Powder Orange isopods actually are

Powder Orange isopods are a color morph of Porcellionides pruinosus, a small, fast terrestrial isopod in the family Porcellionidae. "Isopod" means they're crustaceans, not insects — closer relatives of shrimp and crabs than of the roaches and beetles most feeders come from. Like all terrestrial isopods, they breathe through gill-like structures called pleopodal lungs on the underside of their abdomen, which is why moisture matters at all: those structures have to stay damp to work. The University of Michigan's Animal Diversity Web is a good non-commercial primer on isopod biology if you want to go deeper on the crustacean side.

Adults are small, roughly 0.3–0.5 inches (8–12 mm) at full size, with a slightly elongated, fast-moving body and a fine powdery, waxy "bloom" on the shell — that pruinose coating is where the pruinosus in the name comes from, and it's why the powder morphs (Orange, Blue, Gray) all look dusted with chalk. The Orange morph is a warm, even pumpkin-to-apricot color that reads beautifully against dark substrate and looks fantastic crawling across a bioactive vivarium floor.

A few biological facts shape everything about their care:

• ◆They are fast and active. Compared to the slow, trundling pillbugs people picture, Porcellionides pruinosus is quick, restless, and a capable climber. This is a "runner," not a "roller" — they don't conglobate (roll into a ball) like Armadillidium. That speed is part of their charm and part of why a lid matters.
• ◆They breed explosively. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch (the marsupium) on their underside and release live, fully formed miniature young called mancae — typically 20–50 per brood — and they cycle through broods quickly. Few isopods multiply faster.
• ◆They come from drier, disturbed ground. In the wild this species turns up in compost heaps, under bark, in well-aerated leaf litter and around the edges of human activity across temperate and subtropical regions. That ecology is the care sheet: warm, well-ventilated, a damp zone next to a dry zone, lots of decaying plant matter. It is not a sealed, swampy box.

The same species as Powder Blue and Powder Gray

This is worth saying plainly because it saves a lot of confusion: Powder Orange, Powder Blue, and Powder Gray are all the same species — Porcellionides pruinosus — selected for color. Their care is essentially identical. If you've raised Powder Blues, you already know how to raise Powder Oranges. You can keep them together, but be aware they'll interbreed freely and the colors will blend over generations, so most keepers run them in separate boxes to keep the morphs clean. If you want my dedicated walkthrough of the blue line, it's the same playbook applied to a different coat: see my Powder Blue isopod guide.

Why they're a great beginner isopod

Three traits make Powder Oranges the culture I steer new keepers toward:

• ◆They're forgiving on temperature and tolerant of a range of conditions — within reason. They won't sulk if the room swings a few degrees.
• ◆They breed so fast you get the reward loop quickly. Nothing keeps a beginner engaged like watching a colony visibly grow. You'll have mancae within weeks and a booming box within months.
• ◆They do real work. As a cleanup crew they shred mold, leaf litter, frass, and shed skins; as feeders they're a renewable, gut-loadable protein source for small insectivores.

The one honest catch — the thing this whole guide keeps returning to — is that they are a drier, more ventilated isopod than the tropical species most care sheets are written for. Nail that and they're nearly bulletproof.

The enclosure: a full build

Size and container

A small starter culture (10–25 isopods) is happy in a 6-quart tub, but because this species breeds so fast I tell people to start in a shoebox-to-sweaterbox-sized bin (roughly 12 x 8 inches of floor or larger) so you're not rehousing in a month. More floor space matters more than height. Powder Oranges don't need much vertical room — they live in and on the substrate and litter, not up in the air.

Clear plastic or glass both work. Clear lets you watch the colony, which is genuinely part of the fun with a morph this pretty; opaque tubs are cheaper and the isopods don't care about the dark. Whatever you pick, it must be:

• ◆Non-toxic and chemically inert — never reuse a container that held cleaning products or pesticides.
• ◆Secure-lidded — see the climbing note below.
• ◆Easy to ventilate — you'll be cutting or drilling it.

Ventilation: the part most care sheets get wrong for this species

Here is where Powder Oranges depart from the standard isopod script. Tropical isopods are kept near-sealed to trap humidity. Powder Oranges want airflow. They come from well-aerated, drier habitats, and in a stagnant box they decline fast — you get mold blooms, grain-mite explosions, and lethargic animals.

So build in generous ventilation: cut a large window in the lid and, ideally, a second one high on a side wall to create cross-flow. Then cover every opening with fine metal mesh, hot-glued in place. Fine metal mesh, specifically — they can chew plastic mesh, and pinhead-sized mancae walk straight through coarse screen or drilled holes. The mesh breathes while keeping every life stage in.

A good rule: if you ever see persistent condensation beading on the walls, you don't have enough ventilation. A powder isopod box should look damp on one end of the substrate and dry on the glass.

Containment: yes, they climb

Unlike discoid roaches — which can't grip smooth vertical walls — Powder Orange isopods are fast and will climb glass and smooth plastic, especially when the air is humid enough to leave a film on the walls. This is the second reason ventilation matters so much: a well-ventilated box has dry walls, and dry walls keep the isopods on the substrate where they belong. Combine a snug, mesh-vented lid with good airflow and escapes become a non-issue. If you keep them in an open-topped bioactive vivarium, lean on airflow and a dry rim of substrate around the edges to discourage wandering.

Substrate

The substrate is the foundation of both the habitat and the diet. A good powder-isopod mix is:

• ◆Organic, pesticide-free topsoil or coconut coir as the base for moisture and burrowing.
• ◆Plenty of hardwood leaf litter (oak, maple, magnolia, beech) on top — this is shelter and food.
• ◆Pieces of rotting hardwood / cork bark for grazing, hiding, and biofilm.
• ◆A built-in calcium source mixed through — crushed eggshell, cuttlebone chunks, or limestone flour.

Two to three inches of depth is plenty. Here's the species-specific tweak: because Powder Oranges like it drier and more aerated, keep the mix on the loose, fluffy, well-draining side rather than dense and water-retentive. You want a substrate that holds a damp pocket without going to mud. Some keepers run them on a slightly thinner, leaf-litter-heavy layer for exactly this reason.

Hides, litter, and "furniture"

Pile on the leaf litter and lay down cork bark, bark slabs, and chunks of rotting wood. These do three jobs at once: they're hiding spots that cut stress, they're grazing surfaces where biofilm grows, and they buffer the moisture gradient. A handful of sphagnum moss tucked into the damp corner gives the isopods and their mancae a humid refuge to molt in without making the whole box wet. Don't add anything sharp or chemically treated.

Heat, humidity, and the moisture gradient that decides everything

If you take one section from this guide, take this one. With Powder Oranges, how you manage moisture and airflow matters more than any other factor, and it's the opposite of what most isopod care sheets tell you.

Temperature

Powder Oranges do well at normal room temperatures. Target a range of about 70–80°F (21–27°C), and they'll tolerate the low-to-mid 80s at the warm end without complaint. Below roughly 65°F they slow down and reproduction tapers off; sustained cold stalls a colony but rarely kills it outright. In a cold room, a low-wattage heat mat on one side of the enclosure (never the bottom-center, which cooks the substrate they live in) nudges activity and breeding back up — but always pair a mat with sensible airflow, because heat plus a sealed box equals a mold incubator. A warm end and a cooler end let the isopods self-regulate, which is exactly what you want.

Humidity and the gradient — drier than you think

Most sources will tell you isopods want 70–85% humidity wall to wall. For tropical species, fine. For Powder Oranges, that's a recipe for mold, mites, and a sluggish colony. This species wants a moisture gradient:

• ◆One genuinely damp end — mist it, or keep the moss/coir there moist — where the isopods can hydrate and molt. Aim for "damp," not "saturated."
• ◆One genuinely dry end — left to dry out — where they spend a lot of their time, because that's their preference.
• ◆Real airflow over the top so the box never becomes a stagnant terrarium.

In practice I keep one corner moist by misting it every few days (more in dry weather, less in humid), leave the opposite corner alone, and rely on a well-vented lid to keep the overall box from going swampy. The isopods will cluster wherever the moisture suits them at any given moment, which tells you the gradient is working. If they're all jammed into the damp corner, the box is too dry overall; if they're avoiding the wet end and you smell must or see mold, it's too wet — dry it out and open up the vents.

The failure mode to internalize: with Powder Oranges, "too wet and stagnant" kills far more colonies than "too dry." When in doubt, ventilate more and mist less.

Feeding: diet, calcium, and protein

Powder Oranges are detritivores — in the wild and in the box, the base of their diet is decaying plant matter, and you've already built most of it into the substrate. But to drive the explosive breeding this species is capable of, you supplement.

The foundation (always present):

• ◆Hardwood leaf litter — oak, maple, magnolia, beech. Nutrient-dense, breaks down at a manageable rate, doubles as shelter. This should always be in the box.
• ◆Rotting hardwood and cork bark — cellulose, biofilm, grazing.

The supplements (rotated):

• ◆Fresh produce in small amounts — carrot, zucchini, squash, sweet potato, cucumber, a little apple. Offer a thin slice, let them swarm it, and pull what's left before it molds. Produce is moisture, vitamins, and enrichment.
• ◆A standing calcium source — cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or limestone. Non-negotiable. Isopods need calcium to harden their shell after every molt, and gravid females draw heavily on it. Keep some available at all times.
• ◆Protein, a couple times a week, in small hits — fish flakes, dried shrimp, a sprinkle of a commercial isopod "protein powder," or a bit of dried bloodworm. Protein is the lever that drives reproduction and, importantly, keeps the colony from cannibalizing freshly molted individuals when they're protein-starved. Don't overdo it — excess protein attracts mites. A pinch, watched, then removed if it sits.

Avoid anything salty, oily, processed, citrus-heavy, or pesticide-treated, and wash produce first. Spread food around rather than dumping it in one pile, both to mimic foraging and to keep any one spot from souring.

When you're ready to start a culture or refresh thin stock, All Angles Creatures stocks healthy, well-started isopod cultures including the powder morphs — a clean, active starter culture saves you the headache of inheriting someone else's mites.

Breeding: the explosion

This is where Powder Oranges shine, and honestly where they can overwhelm you. Under good conditions — warm, a working moisture gradient, calcium and protein available, low disturbance — they are among the fastest-breeding isopods in the hobby.

The mechanics: after internal fertilization, females carry eggs in the marsupium, a fluid-filled brood pouch on the underside of the body. You can spot a gravid female by the pale, swollen pouch. After a couple of weeks the eggs hatch inside the pouch and she releases live mancae — tiny, white, fully-formed miniatures, 20–50 at a time — that immediately start grazing in the litter. Because generations overlap and the cycle is short, a colony quickly becomes a continuous baby machine.

What drives the explosion:

• ◆Stable warmth in the 70s–low 80s°F.
• ◆A real protein supply — protein-fed colonies out-reproduce litter-only colonies dramatically.
• ◆Steady calcium for shell-building in all those new molts.
• ◆Low disturbance. Resist the urge to dig and sort constantly; a settled colony with established biofilm breeds best.
• ◆Don't overcrowd, but don't keep it sparse either — a comfortably populated box breeds fastest. Once it's truly packed, growth self-limits and it's time to split.

Realistically, plan to go from a 10–25 count starter to a self-sustaining, harvestable colony in roughly six to eight months, often faster. Many keepers find the bigger challenge is managing the population, not growing it.

The molt cycle, and why calcium matters so much

Understanding how isopods molt explains half the care decisions in this guide, so it's worth a moment. As crustaceans with a rigid exoskeleton, Powder Oranges can only grow by shedding that shell and forming a new, larger one — and they do it constantly throughout life, far more often as fast-growing juveniles than as adults.

The detail that surprises new keepers is that isopods molt in two halves. Unlike an insect that splits its skin and climbs out in one go, an isopod sheds the back half of its body first, then a few days later sheds the front half. If you ever spot a Powder Orange that looks two-toned — pale, fresh-looking at the rear and darker at the front, or vice versa — you're not looking at a sick or dying animal. You're looking at one mid-molt, and it's completely normal. Leave it alone; a molting isopod is soft, vulnerable, and best not disturbed.

This biphasic molt is exactly why a humid refuge and a calm, settled box matter. Molting needs moisture — a too-dry environment causes stuck, failed molts that can kill the animal — which is what the damp end and the sphagnum corner are for. And it's why protein matters: a protein-starved colony is the one that nibbles soft, freshly molted neighbors.

The molt is also the reason calcium is non-negotiable. Each new shell has to be hardened with calcium, and a colony churning out molts around the clock burns through it. Two practical consequences:

• ◆Keep a standing calcium source — cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or limestone — available at all times, not as an occasional add. Gravid females, building shells for dozens of developing young, draw especially hard on it.
• ◆Don't be alarmed when isopods eat their own shed skins. This is normal and beneficial — they recover the calcium and other minerals locked in the old exoskeleton. It's one more reason not to over-clean a healthy box: those discarded molts are food.

A colony with bright, evenly colored, smoothly shelled animals and no deformities is one that's getting the moisture and calcium it needs. Pale, shriveled, or misshapen new isopods are your early warning that one or both is short.

Sexing Powder Orange isopods

You don't need to sex Powder Oranges to keep them — any culture of a dozen or more will contain both and sort itself out — but it's useful to know what you're looking at, especially when judging whether a culture is poised to breed.

Sexing isopods takes a steady hand and ideally a loupe or macro lens, because the animals are small and the differences are on the underside. The clearest cues:

• ◆Gravid females are unmistakable: the pale, swollen marsupium (brood pouch) on the underside, often visibly packed with eggs or developing young. If you see brooding females, your colony is already reproducing.
• ◆Males tend to show modified appendages on the underside used in mating; in many Porcellionides the male's rearmost legs and the small tail-end appendages (uropods) run a touch longer or more developed.

Honestly, for a fast-breeding species like this the practical approach is simply to start with ten or more isopods of mixed sizes and trust the numbers. With broods of 20–50 young arriving on a short cycle, even a slightly female-skewed or male-skewed starter culture explodes into a balanced colony within a few months.

Keeping the color line bright

Powder Orange is a selected color morph, and like any morph it can drift over generations if you're not paying attention. A few habits keep the line looking its best:

• ◆Don't mix morphs you want to keep pure. Because Powder Orange, Blue, and Gray are all the same species, housing them together means they interbreed, and over generations the bright orange muddies toward intermediate tones. Keep each morph in its own box if color matters to you.
• ◆Cull or separate off-color individuals if you're maintaining a tight line — occasional duller or off-tone isopods will appear, and removing them before they breed keeps the colony vivid.
• ◆Feed well. Color is partly genetics and partly condition. A well-fed colony with good calcium, protein, and varied produce simply looks healthier and brighter than a neglected one. Beta-carotene-rich produce like carrot and squash doesn't hurt.

None of this is mandatory for a working cleanup or feeder colony — a "production" box can run as a mixed, unselected population perfectly well. It only matters if you're keeping Powder Oranges for their looks or selling clean morph cultures.

Seasonal adjustments

Powder Oranges are sensitive to the moisture changes that come with the seasons, more so than to temperature, because the ambient humidity of your home swings through the year:

• ◆Dry winter heating pulls moisture out of the box fast. Expect to mist the damp end more often, watch for the colony crowding into the wet corner, and consider a slightly larger moist zone.
• ◆Humid summers do the opposite — the box holds moisture longer and the risk shifts to too wet and stagnant. Lean harder on ventilation, mist less, and watch for condensation on the walls and any musty smell.
• ◆Cold snaps slow breeding; if a winter room dips below the mid-60s and the colony goes quiet, a side-mounted low-wattage heat mat restores activity. Pull it back in summer so you don't cook them.

The habit that ties it together: read the box, not the calendar. Check moisture and airflow whenever the weather turns, and adjust misting and ventilation to hold the same gradient year-round.

Using Powder Oranges as a cleanup crew

This is the job most people buy them for, and they're superb at it. In a bioactive terrarium or a reptile/amphibian enclosure, Powder Oranges:

• ◆Eat mold, decaying plant matter, shed skins, and animal waste (frass), keeping the substrate clean and breaking the cycle that lets harmful bacteria and fungus accumulate.
• ◆Aerate and till the substrate as they burrow and forage, improving its structure and recycling nutrients back to live plants — which is exactly what a bioactive setup needs.
• ◆Coexist peacefully with most reptiles, amphibians, and other inverts, and with other isopod and springtail species.

A note on pairing them with the rest of your cleanup crew: Powder Oranges play beautifully with springtails, which mop up the finer mold and moisture that isopods miss. The two together are the classic bioactive cleanup duo. If you want a second, smaller isopod that thrives in the wetter corners Powder Oranges avoid, dwarf whites are the standard pick — I cover them in my dwarf white isopod breeding guide.

One caveat specific to bioactive use: because Powder Oranges like it drier and more ventilated, they're best matched to vivariums that aren't kept swamp-wet. In a very wet tropical tank they'll survive but won't thrive, and you may do better with a tropical isopod species there.

Using Powder Oranges as feeders

Their fast breeding makes Powder Oranges a genuinely useful feeder — a renewable, gut-loaded protein source you grow at home. The catch is size: at 0.3–0.5 inches they're small, which makes them ideal for:

• ◆Dart frogs and other small frogs and amphibians
• ◆Small geckos (day geckos, micro-geckos) and juvenile reptiles
• ◆Any small insectivore where a tiny, soft-bodied, moving feeder fits the mouth

For larger animals — adult bearded dragons, larger geckos, monitors — Powder Oranges are too small to be efficient; you'd want a larger isopod like the Dairy Cow or a roach feeder such as discoid roaches.

To feed them off well, treat them like any feeder: gut-load before offering. For 24–48 hours before harvesting, give the colony rich produce and a protein hit so the isopods are nutrient-packed when eaten. Because they breed so fast, you can crop a steady trickle from a single colony indefinitely without crashing it — just don't harvest so hard you outpace the breeding. As with all feeders, the isopod's calcium-to-phosphorus ratio is not favorable on its own, so dust with a calcium supplement appropriate to your animal if it's being used as a primary feeder rather than incidental enrichment.

Powder Orange vs. other common isopods

People always want the comparison, so here's how Powder Oranges stack up against the isopods you're most likely to be choosing between. Treat the moisture and speed columns as the decisive ones — they're what actually determines which species fits your setup.

The takeaways that matter:

• ◆Powder Oranges are the "drier and breezier" isopod. If your instinct from other isopods is to seal and soak the box, you'll kill them. They're the species that wants airflow and a real dry zone.
• ◆For small feeders + cleanup, Powder Oranges are hard to beat — fast, hardy, pretty, and useful. For large feeders, jump to Dairy Cows.
• ◆Match the isopod to the tank's moisture. Powder Oranges for drier, well-ventilated setups; dwarf whites and tropicals for wet ones.

Maintenance rhythm

Powder Oranges are low-maintenance once dialed in — the goal is a self-sustaining micro-ecosystem you barely touch.

• ◆Mist the damp corner as needed — every few days in dry conditions, less when it's humid. Re-wet only the wet end; leave the dry end dry.
• ◆Feed and pull leftovers. Top up leaf litter as it disappears, offer produce/protein a couple times a week, and remove uneaten wet food before it molds. Keep the calcium source stocked.
• ◆Watch the airflow. If condensation builds on the walls, open up ventilation. Stagnant + wet is the enemy.
• ◆Don't over-clean. Frass, biofilm, and shed skins are food and habitat; the mancae graze in them. Spot-remove mold and rotten food only. A full substrate change is rarely needed — refresh the litter and top layer periodically and replace the base only if it compacts or sours, every several months.
• ◆Split the colony before it's wall-to-wall. When the box is visibly booming, scoop a few cups of substrate-plus-isopods into a new prepared box. This is how you scale, and it's also your insurance: if one box ever crashes, another carries you.

Troubleshooting a struggling colony

Work the causes in order of likelihood — and notice that for this species, "too wet/stagnant" sits at the top, the reverse of most isopods.

• ◆Mold blooms, grain mites, musty smell, sluggish animals? The box is too wet and/or too stagnant. This is the number-one Powder Orange problem. Dry the box out, remove wet food, increase ventilation, and re-establish a real dry zone. Springtails help mop up residual mold while you correct it.
• ◆Isopods all jammed in the damp corner, shells looking dull/shriveled? Too dry overall. Mist the wet end more and make sure the moss/coir there is genuinely damp.
• ◆Colony stalled, not breeding? Check temperature (warm end in the 70s–low 80s), then protein and calcium (both must be available), then disturbance (are you digging in it constantly?). A warm, fed, settled box breeds reliably.
• ◆Isopods climbing the walls / escaping? Walls are humid. Improve ventilation to dry the walls, confirm the lid + mesh is secure, and keep a dry margin of substrate around the rim.
• ◆Failed molts, deformed new isopods? Calcium deficiency. Add cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or limestone and make sure it stays available.
• ◆Sudden die-off? Suspect overheating (bottom-center heat cooking the substrate, or an unregulated mat), a pesticide-contaminated food or substrate, or a stagnant-and-wet mold/bacteria problem. Move heat to the side, verify your food and substrate sources, and ventilate.

What to expect: a month-by-month timeline

New keepers often worry something's wrong when really they're just early in the curve. Here's the realistic arc of a Powder Orange culture started from a 10–25 count, kept warm and well-fed:

• ◆Weeks 1–2: Quiet. The isopods settle, find the hides, and establish themselves. You may barely see them — they're nocturnal and shy at first. Resist the urge to dig and check. Just confirm the moisture gradient and ventilation are right and that food and calcium are available.
• ◆Weeks 3–6: You start spotting the first mancae — tiny white miniatures in the litter. This is the signal the colony has taken. Biofilm establishes on the wood and bark. Activity at the food increases.
• ◆Months 2–4: Visible growth. Multiple overlapping generations now, mancae graduating to colored juveniles, more gravid females appearing. The colony begins to feel "busy." Protein consumption rises — feed accordingly.
• ◆Months 4–6: Boom. The box looks populated, food disappears fast, and you're seeing isopods at every size constantly. This is when many keepers do their first split into a second box.
• ◆Months 6–8 and beyond: Fully self-sustaining. You can harvest feeders steadily, split off new cultures, and the colony hums along on a light-touch maintenance routine.

If you're well past these marks with no mancae and no growth, that's your cue to run the troubleshooting checklist above — almost always it's too wet/stagnant, too cold, or short on protein.

Where to start, and what to look for

• ◆Start with a clean, captive-bred culture of 10–25 from a keeper who runs their cultures properly. Active, brightly colored, fast-moving isopods across a range of sizes are the sign of a healthy line. Avoid sluggish, dull, or mite-ridden stock — you don't want to import a pest problem.
• ◆Set the box up first — substrate, litter, calcium, moisture gradient, ventilation all dialed in — before the isopods arrive, so they walk into ideal conditions.
• ◆Skip wild-caught. Wild isopods can carry mites, pathogens, and parasites that will haunt an established culture. Captive-bred stock is cleaner and the responsible choice.
• ◆Quarantine new additions in a separate tub for a couple of weeks before merging them into an established colony, watching for mites and die-offs.

The short version

Give Powder Oranges what they actually want — strong ventilation, a real moisture gradient (damp end + dry end), warmth in the 70s–low 80s°F, hardwood litter and rotting wood, a standing calcium source, and small protein hits a couple times a week — and they reward you faster than almost any isopod in the hobby. The one mistake to avoid above all others is treating them like a tropical, sealed-and-soaked species. Keep it breezier and drier than your instincts say, and a Powder Orange culture becomes exactly what you want from a beginner isopod: a bright, busy, self-sustaining colony that cleans up after your animals and quietly multiplies into more colonies than you know what to do with.

New to isopods and cleanup crews? Start with the exotic animals care library, compare notes with my Powder Blue isopod guide, or — if you need a larger feeder isopod — see the ultimate guide to raising Dairy Cow isopods.