A Complete Guide to Silkworms for Leopard Geckos
- Role
- Rotation supplement
- Protein
- ~11%
- Fat
- ~2%
- Moisture
- ~80%
- Chitin
- very low
- Ca:P
- ~1:2
- Calcium-rich
- No (dust it)
- Best for
- Soft-bodied protein for picky or recovering animals
When it comes to keeping a leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) healthy, the diet matters as much as the habitat. Leopard geckos are insectivores that thrive on variety, and silkworms (Bombyx mori) are one of the best supplemental feeders you can add to the rotation. They're nutrient-dense, exceptionally easy to digest, and most geckos take to them readily. This guide covers why silkworms work so well, how to introduce them, and exactly how to fit them into a balanced diet — without overselling them as something they're not.
Why silkworms are a great choice
Silkworms occupy a nutritional niche no other common feeder matches. Here's what actually makes them valuable for a leopard gecko:
- Easy to digest, zero impaction risk. Silkworms are entirely soft-bodied with no chitin — no hard exoskeleton at all. That makes them effortless to digest, even for juveniles or geckos with sensitive guts, and removes the impaction risk that comes with harder feeders like mealworms.
- Very low fat. At roughly 1% fat (as-fed), silkworms are the leanest common feeder available. For a leopard gecko — a species prone to obesity in captivity — that means you can offer them regularly without driving weight gain.
- High moisture. At about 83% moisture, silkworms help with hydration, which supports clean shedding and overall health.
- A decent calcium ratio. Silkworms have a better calcium-to-phosphorus ratio (~0.77:1) than crickets or mealworms — still phosphorus-heavy, so you still dust with calcium, but a better starting point than most.
A quick honesty note on protein: you'll sometimes see silkworms described as "around 60% protein." That figure is on a dry-matter basis — after the water is removed. On an as-fed basis, the way your gecko actually eats them, silkworm protein is closer to 9%, because most of their weight is water. Both numbers are real; they just describe different things. The practical upshot is the same: silkworms are a fantastic supplement, not a standalone staple.
How to introduce silkworms to your gecko's diet
You don't want to swap a gecko's whole diet overnight. Ease silkworms in:
- Start slowly. Offer a couple of silkworms alongside the usual feeders so your gecko gets familiar with the new food. A few at first helps a cautious eater make the transition.
- Watch the response. Silkworms wriggle gently, which triggers the leopard gecko's hunt-and-strike instinct. An enthusiastic strike is a good sign they're well received.
- Make them a regular part of the diet. Once your gecko reliably eats them, work silkworms in about 2–3 times a week as a supplement alongside a protein-dense staple.
Real-world experience from keepers is that, once introduced properly, many leopard geckos take to silkworms quickly — and some come to prefer them over crickets.
How many silkworms, and how often
Silkworms are a supplement, not the entire diet. A practical schedule:
- Frequency: 2–3 times per week.
- Per session: a few appropriately sized silkworms — sized to no wider than the space between the gecko's eyes, the same sizing rule that applies to every feeder.
- The rest of the week: a protein-dense staple such as discoid roaches or crickets, plus the occasional hydration treat like a hornworm.
Because silkworms are low in as-fed protein, a leopard gecko — especially a growing juvenile — needs a higher-protein staple carrying the bulk of the diet, with silkworms adding their low-fat, high-moisture, easy-digestion benefits on top.
A balanced leopard gecko diet
A strong rotation built around silkworms looks like this:
- Staple (most feedings): discoid roaches or crickets — the protein backbone.
- Premium supplement (2–3×/week): silkworms — low fat, hydration, easy digestion.
- Hydration treat (occasionally): hornworms — high moisture, eagerly eaten.
- Avoid as staples: waxworms and superworms — far too fatty for regular feeding.
Whatever you feed, two habits matter: gut-load your staple feeders with nutritious produce for 24–48 hours before offering them, and dust with calcium (with D3 a few times a week if you don't run UVB). Gut-loading and dusting do more for your gecko's long-term health than any single feeder choice. One caveat specific to silkworms: you can't really gut-load them, because they eat only their mulberry-based chow — so their value depends on buying them fresh and healthy, and you still dust them with calcium at feeding time. Lean on your roach or cricket staple for the gut-loading, and let silkworms contribute their low-fat, high-moisture, easy-digestion benefits on top.
Sizing silkworms to your gecko
Silkworms are sold by length, and matching size to your gecko is the same rule that governs every feeder: offer nothing wider than the space between the gecko's eyes. Because silkworms are long and thin, judge them by their body width and girth rather than their length — a long but slender silkworm is usually safe, while a short, fat one may be too thick for a small gecko.
- Hatchling and juvenile leopard geckos: small silkworms (roughly ½–1 inch).
- Sub-adult geckos: medium silkworms (around 1–1.5 inches).
- Adult geckos: medium to large silkworms (1.5 inches and up), within the eye-width limit.
When in doubt, size down. A feeder that's slightly small is harmless; one that's too large risks choking or regurgitation.
Storing and handling silkworms
Silkworms are delicate and have a relatively short shelf life — about 1–2 weeks — so freshness matters. A few practical habits keep them alive and worth feeding:
- Keep them in their shipped container with their mulberry-based food (often called silkworm chow) until you feed them. They eat this and only this; don't offer lettuce or vegetables.
- Store at room temperature, around 70–80°F. Unlike hornworms, you don't refrigerate silkworms — cold below the mid-50s harms them.
- Keep the container dry and ventilated. Excess moisture and condensation breed mold, which is the most common killer of a silkworm cup. Wipe away condensation and remove any worm that has gone soft, discolored, or mushy.
- Handle gently. They're soft and easily injured — scoop, don't pinch.
A healthy silkworm is plump, pale cream-colored, and actively moving. Limp, darkened, or shriveled worms should be discarded, not fed.
Troubleshooting: my gecko won't take silkworms
Most leopard geckos accept silkworms quickly, but if yours hesitates:
- Make sure the silkworm is warm and active. A sluggish, cool worm doesn't move enough to trigger a strike. Let it warm to room temperature and wriggle.
- Offer at the gecko's active time — evening or after dark, when leopard geckos naturally hunt.
- Try tong-feeding to add movement, gently wiggling the silkworm in front of the gecko.
- Don't overfeed beforehand. A gecko that's full on its staple won't bother with something new. Offer silkworms when the gecko is mildly hungry.
- Be patient. It can take a few exposures before a cautious gecko recognizes a new feeder as food. If refusal persists across multiple feeders, that's a husbandry or health signal — check temperatures, look for retained shed, and consult a reptile vet if it continues.
How silkworms compare to other leopard gecko feeders
It helps to see where silkworms sit among the feeders you'll actually rotate for a leopard gecko:
| Feeder | Role for leopard geckos | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Discoid roaches | Staple | High protein (~20%), low chitin, easy to gut-load and breed |
| Crickets | Staple | Good protein, but smelly, noisy, and prone to escaping |
| Silkworms | Premium supplement | Ultra-low fat, high moisture, zero chitin, easy to digest |
| Hornworms | Hydration treat | ~85% moisture, eagerly eaten, too low-protein to be a staple |
| Mealworms | Occasional | Hard chitin and higher fat; not ideal as a staple |
| Waxworms / superworms | Rare treat only | Very high fat; cause obesity if fed regularly |
The pattern is clear: a high-protein staple does the heavy lifting, and silkworms add low-fat, hydrating, easy-to-digest value two or three times a week. Together with the occasional hornworm, that's a varied, balanced diet that keeps a leopard gecko at a healthy weight.
Where to get silkworms
Buy from a supplier that ships them healthy, since freshness is everything with such a short-lived feeder. When you want them on hand for the rotation, All Angles Creatures stocks fresh silkworms with a live arrival guarantee. Keep them in their shipped container with their food until feeding time.
The bottom line
Silkworms are one of the best supplemental feeders for leopard geckos: soft-bodied and impaction-free, the lowest-fat feeder available, hydrating, and easy to digest. They're not a sole staple — their as-fed protein is too low for that — but fed 2–3 times a week alongside a protein-dense staple and a calcium dusting, they meaningfully upgrade a leopard gecko's diet and quality of life.
Want the full nutrition breakdown, or the habitat side of leopard gecko keeping? See my silkworm nutrition deep-dive and leopard gecko habitat setup guide, or browse the full exotic-animals care library. For independent feeder nutrient data, see USDA FoodData Central.