Silkworms for Reptiles: Why They're the Best Soft-Bodied Feeder You're Not Using
- Role
- Rotation supplement
- Protein
- ~11%
- Fat
- ~2%
- Moisture
- ~80%
- Chitin
- very low
- Ca:P
- ~1:2
- Calcium-rich
- No (dust it)
- Best for
- Soft-bodied protein for picky or recovering animals
If I could only recommend one feeder to a keeper with a juvenile reptile, a picky eater, or an animal recovering from illness, it would be the silkworm. They're the rare feeder that's genuinely healthy rather than just convenient — high protein, low fat, a decent calcium ratio, soft enough to pose almost no impaction risk, and loaded with moisture. They're also underused, because they cost more and need a little more care than crickets. This guide makes the case for them and shows you how to actually keep and feed them so the upside is worth it.
What makes silkworms different
The silkworm is the larva of the silk moth, Bombyx mori — the same insect domesticated thousands of years ago for silk. As a feeder, it's a soft, pale, slow-moving caterpillar that grows up to roughly a couple of inches. Unlike the hard-shelled feeders (mealworms, superworms, beetles), silkworms have soft, pliable bodies that reptiles swallow and digest easily, which is the foundation of nearly every advantage below.
The headline traits:
- High protein, low fat. Silkworms are protein-rich and exceptionally lean — only about 1-3% fat, far below mealworms or superworms. That makes them suitable for animals prone to obesity or fatty liver, where fatty feeders are a problem.
- A good calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. This is the big one. Most feeders are phosphorus-heavy and demand calcium dusting; silkworms run closer to balanced (commonly cited in the rough range of 1:1 to 2:1), which helps guard against metabolic bone disease with less supplementation.
- High moisture. Their high water content provides real hydration, which matters for shedding and for desert species that rely on food for water.
- Soft and low-risk. The soft body means minimal impaction risk, making them safe for juveniles, older animals, and species with sensitive digestion.
A note on the numbers you'll see elsewhere: silkworm protein is often quoted around "64%," but that's a dry-weight figure. Because a live silkworm is mostly water (often 80%+), the as-fed protein is much lower — still a strong, lean feeder, just not 64% as it sits in your hand. I mention this because overstated single numbers are how feeder myths start.
Why keepers are switching to them
Beyond the raw nutrition, silkworms have practical advantages:
- They're irresistible to reluctant eaters. Soft, slow-moving, and with an enticing texture, silkworms often get sick, stressed, or finicky animals eating when nothing else will. For a hunger strike, they're one of my first tools.
- They're clean. Low odor, minimal frass, fewer allergens than a cricket bin. A nicer feeder to keep around the house.
- They're gentle prey. Their slow movement makes them stress-free targets — good for shy animals and ones with poor aim.
- They support shedding and bone health. The hydration helps reptiles shed cleanly (reducing retained shed), and the calcium content supports skeletal development, especially paired with proper UVB.
The honest drawbacks
I won't oversell them. Two real costs:
- Price. Silkworms are more expensive than crickets or roaches because of their specialized diet and rearing. For a big collection, feeding silkworms exclusively gets pricey.
- Care and shelf life. They eat only mulberry (fresh leaves or commercial mulberry chow), which you must keep fresh, and they don't store as long as hardier feeders. You buy them closer to when you'll use them, not in giant standing reserves.
For most keepers that math still works out, because you're not feeding silkworms alone — you're using them as a high-value part of a rotation.
Keeping silkworms healthy
If you keep them for any length of time, the rules are simple but firm:
Housing and environment
House them in clean, ventilated plastic bins or trays — escape-proof but airy. Aim for 75-86°F and 60-70% humidity. Stable conditions reduce stress and keep them growing well. Cleanliness is critical: remove droppings, leftover food, and any dead worms daily, because silkworms are sensitive to mold and bacteria.
Feeding them
Mulberry is non-negotiable. Fresh mulberry leaves are the gold standard; commercial mulberry chow is the practical substitute when leaves aren't in season. Feed daily, never offer moldy or stale food, and keep fresh food available. There's no real workaround — a mulberry source is the price of admission.
Breeding (optional, advanced)
You can close the loop. Once silkworms reach the pupal stage, move them to containers lined with paper or mesh to spin cocoons; moths emerge in about 10-14 days, mate, and lay eggs. Eggs are stored cool (around 50-60°F) and warmed to control hatching. It's doable but fiddly, and most keepers simply buy fresh batches as needed.
Gut-loading and dusting
Silkworms are one of the few feeders where dusting is optional for some animals, thanks to that calcium ratio — but I still dust lightly with calcium for calcium-demanding species (growing reptiles, gravid females). You can also gut-load: their mulberry diet is already nutritious, and supplementing their feed with calcium or vitamins passes straight through to your pet. As always, gut-load 24-48 hours before feeding off for peak value.
Silkworms vs. the other feeders
Here's roughly how silkworms compare to the feeders keepers usually reach for. Treat these as approximate, relationship-not-precision figures:
| Feeder | Protein | Fat | Calcium ratio | Body | Best role |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Silkworm | High | Very low (~1-3%) | Good | Soft | Lean staple / recovery feeder |
| Discoid roach | High | Low-moderate | Poor (dust) | Soft | Staple |
| Cricket | Moderate | Low-moderate | Poor (dust) | Fairly soft | Staple / variety |
| Superworm | Moderate | High | Poor (dust) | Firmer | Energy treat |
| Waxworm | Moderate | Very high | Poor (dust) | Soft | Pure treat |
What jumps out: silkworms are the leanest common feeder and one of the few with a genuinely good calcium ratio. That combination — low fat plus balanced minerals plus a soft body — is why they're the feeder I reach for when an animal's health is the priority rather than its calorie intake.
Which animals benefit most
Silkworms earn their keep most in a few specific situations:
- Juveniles and hatchlings. Lean protein for fast growth with low impaction risk — hatchling bearded dragons and young geckos do well on them.
- Sick, stressed, or recovering animals. The soft body and enticing texture restart appetites, and the hydration and easy digestion are gentle on a struggling animal.
- Obesity-prone species. Where fatty feeders are a real risk, the ~1-3% fat makes silkworms a guilt-free protein source.
- Picky eaters. Their slow, soft movement wins over animals that ignore harder or faster prey.
- Desert species needing hydration. The high moisture content doubles as a water source and supports clean shedding.
How to introduce them
Transition reptiles to a new feeder gradually:
- Check the fit. Silkworms are great for insectivores (bearded dragons, chameleons, geckos) and a good supplemental protein for omnivores. Match size to your animal's mouth.
- Source clean. Buy from a supplier with hygienic practices; inspect for firm, healthy, undiscolored worms and avoid anything weak or contaminated.
- Offer alongside the usual diet in small amounts at first, watching for acceptance and any digestive upset.
- Observe. Live silkworms during peak activity, or mixed with a familiar feeder, win over hesitant animals fastest.
A word on the "superfood" claims
You'll see silkworms credited with immune-boosting enzymes (serrapeptase, sericin) and near-miraculous recovery stories. I want to be straight with you: silkworms are an excellent, healthy feeder on their nutrition alone — lean protein, good calcium, hydration, digestibility. The therapeutic-enzyme claims are not well-established for feeding live silkworms to reptiles, and I wouldn't choose them as "medicine." Choose them because they're a genuinely good food. That's plenty.
Where silkworms fit
Silkworms can carry a much bigger share of the diet than a pure treat like a waxworm — their lean, balanced profile makes them close to a staple. But variety still wins. I build a rotation around silkworms and a soft roach staple, then bring in other feeders for diversity; my feeder debate guide lays out how the staples compare, and superworms round out the higher-energy end.
When I restock, I get silkworms from All Angles Creatures, sized for everything from juvenile geckos to adult dragons and shipped with a live arrival guarantee. For the science on why the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio matters so much in reptile diets, the University of Florida entomology department is a good non-commercial reference.
The short version
Silkworms are one of the healthiest soft-bodied feeders going: high protein, very low fat, a good calcium ratio, high moisture, and easy to digest — ideal for juveniles, sick or recovering animals, and picky eaters. The trade-offs are cost and a strict mulberry diet with shorter shelf life. Keep them warm, humid, clean, and fed on mulberry; dust lightly for calcium-hungry species; and use them as a high-value anchor in a varied rotation rather than the only thing on the menu.