MMatt Goren
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Best Feeder Insects for Crested Geckos, Ranked

By Matt Goren · Updated June 26, 2026

I've kept crested geckos alongside my leopard geckos for a long time, and the biggest mental shift between them is this: a crestie doesn't need bugs the way a leo does. A good crested gecko diet (CGD) — the powdered food you mix with water — is nutritionally complete on its own. So why feed insects at all? Enrichment. Watching a crestie stalk and snap a live feeder is good for the animal and, honestly, good for me. Here's how I rank the options for these small, soft-jawed, arboreal geckos.

#1: Small silkworms

~1% fat · zero chitin · ~83% moisture

Silkworms are the ideal crestie insect, full stop. Their ultra-low fat won't pile calories onto an already calorie-dense CGD diet. Their completely soft body suits a crested gecko's relatively weak jaws — there's no hard shell to wrestle. And their slow, deliberate wriggle is easy for a small arboreal gecko to track and grab. I offer two to three small silkworms in a ledge dish once or twice a week, dusted with calcium plus D3. If you only ever buy one feeder for a crestie, make it small silkworms.

#2: Black soldier fly larvae (BSFL)

~9,340 mg/kg calcium · no dusting needed

BSFL bring concentrated natural calcium on top of whatever's in your CGD. They're sedentary, which actually helps in a ledge dish — they pile up and wriggle in one spot, and the concentrated movement catches a crestie's eye. Three to five per feeding, once a week, in a mounted dish at climbing height.

#3: Small discoid roach nymphs

~20% protein · ~7% fat

The smallest discoid nymphs add protein for cresties that take them. Not every crested gecko will eat roaches — many are strict CGD eaters — so test interest with a single tong-fed nymph before committing. Discoids don't climb smooth walls, so a stray one won't scale your enclosure glass.

#4: Small hornworms

~85% moisture

An occasional hydration treat. Use only the smallest hornworms you can get — crested geckos have small mouths, and a hornworm that's grown out is far too big. One small worm, once a week at most.

Insects I skip for crested geckos

  • Mealworms — tough chitin and a poor mineral ratio; hard for weak crestie jaws.
  • Superworms — too large, too tough, and they bite.
  • Crickets — they escape into the foliage of an arboreal setup, chirp all night, and nip a sleeping gecko. Roaches do the same job without the chaos.
  • Waxworms — ~25% fat is pointless on top of calorie-dense CGD.

The principles that keep it simple

  • CGD is the foundation. Insects supplement; they never replace.
  • Once or twice a week is enough live food.
  • Small sizes only. A crestie's mouth is smaller than a leopard gecko's — when in doubt, go smaller.
  • Ledge-dish feeding works best. Mount a shallow dish at climbing height so your arboreal gecko can hunt where it's comfortable, and so feeders can't vanish into the substrate.

The mistake I see new crestie keepers make is treating insects like a leopard gecko's diet — daily, varied, the main event. For a crested gecko that's backwards. Keep the CGD consistent, drop in a few soft feeders for fun and a protein boost, and you've got a thriving, well-rounded animal.

Compare notes with my leopard gecko diet guide and the broader how to choose the right feeder insect.


Sources: Finke, M.D. (2013). "Complete nutrient content of four species of feeder insects." Zoo Biology 32:27-36. doi:10.1002/zoo.21012 · MSD Veterinary Manual — Nutrition in Reptiles