Discoid Roaches vs. Other Feeders: Building the Best Bearded Dragon Diet

I've kept feeders for a lot of years and fed a lot of bearded dragons, and the question I get more than any other isn't about heat lamps or basking temps — it's "what should I actually be feeding it?" The honest answer is that the single biggest lever on a bearded dragon's long-term health is what goes in the food bowl, and most of the avoidable problems I see — obesity, fatty liver, metabolic bone disease, impaction — trace straight back to the wrong feeders fed the wrong way.

So this is the guide I wish every new dragon keeper got handed on day one. It's a head-to-head on the feeders that matter — discoid roaches as the staple, with crickets, dubia, superworms, hornworms, silkworms, black soldier fly larvae, and the rest as the supporting cast — and it's also the how: gut-loading, calcium and D3 dusting, feeder sizing, and how feeding changes as your dragon grows from a frantic juvenile into a greens-eating adult. I'll fix a few myths that get repeated everywhere along the way, because some of the most-copied feeder advice on the internet is flatly wrong and a couple of those errors can hurt your animal.

Read it once end to end. By the time you're done you'll be able to walk into any pet store or scroll any feeder supplier and know exactly what to buy, what to skip, and why.

What a bearded dragon actually eats — and why the staple matters

Bearded dragons are omnivores, and that one word drives the whole diet. In the wild they eat insects, the occasional small vertebrate, and a steady amount of vegetation, and the balance shifts hard with age. A hatchling is a tiny predator running on protein to fuel explosive growth; a mature adult is mostly a grazer that needs far fewer insects and far more leafy greens. Get that age-shift wrong — keep an adult on a juvenile's insect load — and you grow a fat, sick dragon.

Within the insect half of the diet, you want a staple: one nutritious, easy-to-digest feeder that makes up the bulk of the live-prey intake, with other feeders rotated in for variety, hydration, and the occasional treat. The staple is the workhorse. It needs to be high enough in protein to build a dragon, moderate enough in fat to not balloon one, soft enough to digest cleanly, and safe to feed in volume day after day.

That's exactly the slot a good feeder roach fills, and it's why I build almost every dragon's diet around one.

Meet the cast: the feeders worth knowing

Before the head-to-head, here's the lineup and the role each one plays. Roles matter more than raw stats — a "great" feeder fed in the wrong role is a bad diet.

Discoid roach (Blaberus discoidalis). My default staple, especially for keepers in the southern US. High protein, moderate fat, soft low-chitin body, nearly odorless, silent, can't climb smooth walls, and legal in Florida where dubia aren't. A colony basically runs itself once it's set up. (Worth flagging: a lot of articles online — including the one this guide grew out of — call discoids "Blaptica dubia." That's wrong. Blaptica dubia is the dubia roach; the discoid is Blaberus discoidalis. They're different species in the same family, and mixing up the names is a tell that the rest of the care info wasn't checked closely.)

Dubia roach (Blaptica dubia). The other premier staple, nutritionally near-interchangeable with discoids. Breeds a touch faster. The catch is legality — restricted in Florida and a few other places — so for many keepers the choice between dubia and discoids is made by their zip code, not by nutrition.

Cricket (Acheta domesticus / Gryllodes sigillatus). The classic feeder. Cheap, everywhere, and their constant movement triggers a strong feeding response, which is genuinely useful for a picky or recovering dragon. But they reek, they chirp all night, they die off in the tub, they can carry parasites more readily than captive-bred roaches, and they'll escape and colonize a room. Good for variety, mediocre as a staple.

Superworm (Zophobas morio). A treat, full stop. High fat, a hard head capsule, and beloved by dragons to the point that some will hold out for them and refuse better food. Fine as an occasional reward; a disaster as a daily staple.

Mealworm (Tenebrio molitor). Convenient and shelf-stable, but high in fat and wrapped in a hard, chitinous shell that's tough to digest. I rarely use them for dragons — especially not juveniles, where the hard exoskeleton raises impaction risk. There are better options in every direction.

Hornworm (Manduca sexta larva). Mostly water — a fantastic hydration feeder and a treat dragons love. Very soft, easy to eat, low fat. But at single-digit protein it can't anchor a diet; it's a supplement, not a staple. They also grow fast, so size them carefully.

Silkworm (Bombyx mori larva). One of the better "extra" feeders — soft, easy to digest, low in fat, decent moisture, and one of the few insects with a genuinely respectable calcium content. Pricey and a little fussy to keep, but a great rotation feeder, particularly for dragons that need gentle, nutritious food.

Black soldier fly larvae (BSFL, Hermetia illucens). Sold as "calci-worms," "phoenix worms," and similar. These are the calcium exception: nearly every other feeder is phosphorus-heavy with a poor calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, but BSFL are naturally rich in calcium with a favorable Ca:P ratio. Small, soft, and an excellent supplement to bake some real calcium into the diet. Most dragons accept them readily; some are indifferent.

Waxworm (Galleria mellonella larva). Pure candy — very high fat, low everything-else. A rare treat or a tool for getting weight onto a sick, thin dragon under a vet's guidance. Never a staple.

The feeder nutrition comparison

Here's how the common feeders stack up. Treat these as approximate, as-fed figures — actual values swing with the insect's own diet, life stage, and supplier — but the relationships between them are reliable, and the relationships are what should drive your choices, not the second decimal place.

The takeaways that actually matter for a keeper:

• ◆Discoids and dubia are the staple tier. High protein, moderate fat, low chitin, easy on the gut. For a southern-US keeper, discoids usually win on legality alone; everywhere else, pick on price and availability.
• ◆Superworms, mealworms, and waxworms are fat bombs. That high fat adds up fast and drives obesity and fatty-liver disease if they creep into the everyday rotation. Treats and tools, not staples.
• ◆Hornworms and silkworms are the gentle, watery feeders. Great for hydration, variety, and dragons that need easy food — but they can't carry a diet on their protein alone.
• ◆BSFL are your calcium ringer. The one feeder that brings real calcium to the table on its own.
• ◆A staple roach plus rotated variety beats any single feeder. No insect is a complete diet by itself. The art is the mix.

Protein and fat: the ratio that runs your dragon's life

Protein builds the animal — muscle, immune function, the raw material for growth — and a growing juvenile needs a lot of it. Fat is concentrated energy, fine in moderation and genuinely dangerous in excess. The whole game with feeder selection is keeping protein adequate while keeping fat from creeping up, and then shifting the whole load down as the dragon ages.

This is where the fat-heavy feeders quietly do their damage. A superworm or a waxworm tastes like a jackpot to a dragon, and a dragon will absolutely learn to hold out for them and snub better food — I've watched dragons go on a hunger strike waiting for the superworm they know is coming. Lean too hard on those high-fat feeders and you get the two most common pet-dragon diseases in one package: obesity and hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver). Both are slow, both are largely invisible until they're advanced, and both are almost entirely diet-driven.

That's the case for a moderate-fat staple. A discoid or dubia roach at roughly 6–9% fat lets you feed real protein in real volume without loading the animal with grease. You can feed a dragon well on crickets too, but you're fighting their chitin and their husbandry headaches. The staple roach is simply the cleanest way to hit "high protein, controlled fat" every single day.

One myth to put down here: you'll see claims that discoids run "35–40% protein." On an as-fed basis — the insect as your dragon actually eats it, water and all — that's not right; live feeders are mostly water, and as-fed protein lands closer to ~20%. Those big numbers come from dry-matter analysis (the bug with all water removed), which is a fine lab metric but not what's going into your dragon. When you compare feeders, make sure you're comparing them on the same basis. The table above is as-fed, which is the basis that matters at the food bowl.

Calcium, phosphorus, and the dusting you cannot skip

This is the section that prevents the disease that lands more pet dragons at the vet than any other: metabolic bone disease (MBD). And it's the section where the most-copied feeder advice on the internet is dangerously wrong, so read it carefully.

Bearded dragons need roughly twice as much calcium as phosphorus in their diet — a target Ca:P ratio around 2:1. Here's the problem: nearly every feeder insect is the opposite. Discoids, dubia, crickets, mealworms, superworms — they're all phosphorus-heavy, with far more phosphorus than calcium. When dietary phosphorus outweighs calcium, it actively pulls calcium out of the dragon's bones to balance the blood, and over months that produces the soft jaws, bent limbs, swollen legs, tremors, and eventually fractures of MBD.

So when you read — as the article this guide came from claimed — that discoid roaches have a "favorable" or "superior" calcium-to-phosphorus ratio that lets you skip supplementation, ignore it. That's flatly false and it's the kind of error that gets dragons hurt. Discoids are an excellent staple for protein, fat, and digestibility — but on calcium they're poor, like almost all feeders. The one genuine exception is black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), which really are calcium-rich with a naturally favorable ratio. Every other feeder in the lineup needs help.

That help comes in two parts:

• ◆Calcium dusting. Before feeding, toss the insects in a little calcium powder so they're lightly coated — the classic "shake-and-bake" in a cup or bag. This is the single most important supplement in the whole routine. For growing juveniles, dust at most feedings; for adults, several times a week. Use plain calcium (without D3) for the frequent dustings if your dragon gets good UVB.
• ◆Vitamin D3. Calcium is useless without D3, which the dragon needs to actually absorb it. Most of that should come from proper UVB lighting, which lets the dragon synthesize its own D3 — there is no feeder substitute for good UVB. On top of that, a calcium-with-D3 powder or a reptile multivitamin used on a schedule (commonly once or twice a week, the rest of the dustings being plain calcium) covers the gap. Don't overdo D3 and vitamin A — fat-soluble vitamins can build up to toxic levels, so more is not better here.

The clean mental model: gut-loading and dusting solve different problems, and you need both. Dusting fixes calcium. Gut-loading fixes everything the insect is. Which brings us to the next section.

Gut-loading: the diet behind the diet

A feeder insect is a delivery vehicle. What's inside it when your dragon eats it becomes part of your dragon's diet — so a feeder that's been starving in a deli cup for a week is a far worse meal than the same species fed well for two days first. "Gut-loading" just means feeding your feeders a rich diet before you feed them off, so they're packed with nutrition at the moment of truth.

The protocol I use:

• ◆Feed the feeders well for 24–48 hours before feeding off. Give them quality produce — leafy greens, carrots, squash, sweet potato — plus a protein/grain base or a commercial gut-load chow. The roaches you pull will be nutrient-dense exactly when it counts.
• ◆Hydrate them. Water crystals or a slice of moisture-rich produce, never an open dish the small ones drown in. A dehydrated feeder is also a less nutritious one.
• ◆Avoid garbage in. Don't gut-load on junk — heavy citrus, salty/oily/processed scraps, or anything that's been near pesticides. Garbage in is garbage out, one trophic level later.

Gut-loading is also where keeping your own colony pays off. When I need to seed a colony or top up a thin one, All Angles Creatures stocks healthy, well-started discoid roaches in a range of sizes for both breeding stock and direct feeding — start with strong, well-fed insects and the gut-load does even more. (If you want to run your own self-sustaining supply, I've written a full discoid roach breeding and care playbook that covers the colony side end to end.)

What gut-loading can't do is fix calcium — the insect's own body chemistry is phosphorus-heavy no matter how well you feed it. That's the dusting's job. Run both and you've covered the bases: the right insect (staple selection), full of the right nutrients (gut-loading), with the calcium gap closed (dusting), absorbed properly (UVB + D3).

Feeder size and frequency: the rules that scale with your dragon

Two rules prevent most feeding emergencies. Learn them cold.

Size: never wider than the space between the eyes

The hard limit on any feeder is this: it should be no wider than the space between your bearded dragon's eyes. Feed something bigger and you're risking choking or — more insidiously — gut impaction, where indigestible bulk lodges in the digestive tract, sometimes pressing on the spine and causing partial paralysis of the hind legs. Impaction is a genuine emergency and it's almost always avoidable.

The eye-spacing rule scales automatically with the animal: a hatchling gets pinhead crickets and the smallest roach nymphs; a juvenile gets small-to-medium nymphs; an adult gets large nymphs and adult roaches. When you're unsure, go smaller — a dragon happily eats two small feeders, and an oversized one can put it on the operating table. This is also why I'm wary of hard-shelled feeders like mealworms and superworms for juveniles: even at a legal size, the tough exoskeleton raises impaction risk in a small dragon.

Frequency: by age, not by appetite

A dragon's appetite is not a reliable guide — most will overeat treats happily. Feed by life stage instead:

• ◆Hatchlings (0–~4 months). Protein-hungry and growing fast. Offer appropriately sized insects 2–3 times a day, as many as they'll eat in a 10–15 minute window each time, then remove stragglers. The diet is insect-dominant at this age, but keep finely chopped greens in the enclosure from day one so the habit forms early.
• ◆Juveniles (~4–12 months). Still insect-leaning but tapering. Roughly once or twice a day of insects, with greens always available and slowly becoming a bigger share of the plate.
• ◆Sub-adults to adults (~12–18 months and up). The big flip. Adults are greens-dominant — leafy greens and vegetables should be the everyday bulk of the diet — with insects dropping to a smaller serving every other day, or a few times a week. This is the stage where overfeeding insects quietly creates obese, fatty-livered adults. Respect the taper.

A simple way to picture the lifelong arc: a baby is roughly insect-heavy and greens-light, and a healthy adult is roughly the reverse. The staple roach is what makes that whole arc easy — it's appropriate at every stage, you just feed less of it as the greens take over.

The supporting cast, used right

The staple is the backbone; variety is the health insurance. No single insect is nutritionally complete, and rotation also keeps a dragon from fixating on one food and refusing the rest. Here's how I actually deploy the rest of the lineup around a discoid (or dubia) staple:

• ◆Crickets — for variety and feeding response. Their movement re-triggers interest in a dragon that's gotten bored or is recovering its appetite. Dust them like any staple. Just don't let the tub take over your life.
• ◆Black soldier fly larvae (BSFL) — work them into the rotation specifically for their calcium. They're the one feeder that lightens the dusting burden, and a few in the weekly mix is cheap insurance against MBD.
• ◆Silkworms — a premium rotation feeder: soft, lean, easy to digest, with better-than-average calcium. Great for young dragons and for adding gentle variety.
• ◆Hornworms — the hydration play. Offer a couple to a dragon that's looking dry, was reluctant to drink, or just as an occasional juicy treat. Watch the size; they grow fast.
• ◆Superworms — an occasional reward for adults, and a feeder dragons love a little too much. Keep them rare so your dragon doesn't start holding out for them.
• ◆Mealworms and waxworms — I mostly skip mealworms (hard shell, high fat, better options exist) and reserve waxworms for the specific job of putting weight on a thin or convalescing dragon, ideally with a vet in the loop. Neither belongs in the everyday diet.

The recipe that's served me well: staple roach as the everyday protein, BSFL and silkworms rotated in for calcium and gentleness, crickets for variety and response, hornworms for hydration, superworms/waxworms as rare treats — all sized to the eyes, all dusted (except BSFL, which needs it less), all gut-loaded, all on top of a base of fresh greens that grows with the dragon.

Discoid vs. dubia: the head-to-head keepers actually want

Since these are the two staples worth your time, here's the plain comparison:

• ◆Legality: Discoids win. They're keepable in Florida and some other places where dubia are restricted. If you're in dubia-banned territory, the decision is already made.
• ◆Nutrition: Tie. Effectively interchangeable — both are high-protein, moderate-fat, low-chitin, and both need calcium dusting.
• ◆Climbing / containment: Tie. Neither adult climbs smooth walls; both are easy to contain in a smooth bin.
• ◆Smell and noise: Tie. Both are low-odor and silent — a massive upgrade over crickets.
• ◆Breeding speed: Dubia win, slightly. They mature and reproduce a touch faster, so a dubia colony ramps to harvest sooner.
• ◆Size: Comparable, with discoids often running a hair larger as adults.

My rule of thumb: in dubia-legal areas, either is excellent — pick on price and availability. In dubia-restricted areas (Florida especially), discoids are the obvious choice and give up essentially nothing. Either way, you've got a clean, quiet, escape-resistant staple you can keep at home.

The other half of the plate: greens and vegetables

Everything above is about the insect half of the diet, but a bearded dragon is an omnivore, and for an adult the plant half is the bigger half. Skip it and no amount of perfect feeder selection will keep the animal healthy. So before we leave the diet, the greens.

The staple greens — the ones that should form the everyday base of the salad — are nutrient-dense, low in the troublemakers I'll cover in a second, and safe daily:

• ◆Collard greens — arguably the single best staple green; good calcium, sturdy, dragons accept it well.
• ◆Mustard greens and turnip greens — same tier, easy daily greens.
• ◆Dandelion greens — excellent calcium and widely loved (just never wild-picked from a treated lawn).
• ◆Endive and escarole — gentle, well-accepted, good rotation greens.
• ◆Squash (butternut, acorn) and other firm vegetables, shredded, add variety and some moisture.

Feed in moderation, not daily: kale, spinach, beet greens, and Swiss chard. These get recommended constantly, but spinach, beet greens, and chard are high in oxalates, which bind calcium and block its absorption — the exact opposite of what you want in an animal you're fighting to keep calcium in. Kale and the cabbage-family greens (broccoli, bok choy) carry goitrogens that can interfere with thyroid function in large amounts. None of these are poison; they're just "sometimes" foods, not the base of the salad. A diet built on collard and mustard greens with oxalate-heavy greens kept occasional is the safe pattern.

Fruit is a treat, not a vegetable. Berries, melon, and the like are fine in small amounts as the occasional sweet topper, but they're sugary, often poorly balanced on calcium, and dragons will prefer them to greens if you let them — which trains a bad eater. Keep fruit to a minor garnish.

Hard avoids: iceberg lettuce (basically water with no nutrition — it fills the dragon without feeding it), avocado (toxic to reptiles), rhubarb (toxic), onion and garlic, and anything from a yard that may have been sprayed.

The practical move is a chopped salad of staple greens offered fresh daily, present in the enclosure even for hatchlings (so the habit forms long before they need it), shredded fine enough to eat and refreshed before it wilts. As the dragon ages and the insects taper, this salad quietly becomes the main meal.

Hydration: how dragons actually drink

Bearded dragons come from arid Australia and many of them never reliably recognize a standing water bowl — which is why dehydration sneaks up on keepers who assume "there's a dish in there, it's fine." A dragon gets most of its water three ways, and your feeder choices feed directly into one of them:

• ◆From food. Moisture-rich greens and watery feeders are a real hydration source. This is exactly the role hornworms (~85% water) and to a lesser extent silkworms play — a couple of hornworms is genuinely a drink as much as a meal. Crickets and roaches carry moisture too, especially when they're well-hydrated themselves, which is another quiet payoff of gut-loading.
• ◆From baths. A shallow, warm soak a couple of times a week lets many dragons drink and often prompts a bowel movement, which doubles as mild impaction insurance. Never leave a dragon unattended in water.
• ◆From droplets. Some dragons will lap misted droplets off décor or off their own snout, even when they ignore a bowl.

Signs a dragon is running dry: wrinkled or "tented" skin that's slow to flatten when gently pinched, sunken eyes, sticky/stringy saliva, and dark, scant urates (the white part of the dropping should be soft and white, not hard and yellow). Lean on watery feeders and a bath or two before it gets to that point.

Reading your dragon's body condition

The whole diet comes together in one place: the animal in front of you. Learn to read it and you'll catch problems while they're still cheap to fix.

• ◆A healthy weight dragon has a full, rounded body with the hint of belly contact when resting, a tail that's thick at the base and tapers smoothly, and legs where you can feel but not see the bones. Bright, alert eyes, a strong feeding response, and regular droppings round it out.
• ◆Underweight shows as a sharp, ridged spine, loose folds of skin, sunken fat pads on top of the head, and a thin tail base. Causes: too little food, parasites, husbandry too cold to digest, or competition in a shared enclosure (a reason I keep dragons solo).
• ◆Overweight — the more common pet problem — shows as bulging fat pads, a belly that splays wide, jowly cheeks, and fat rolls at the limbs. This is the fatty-feeder, adult-fed-like-a-juvenile signature, and it's the runway to fatty liver. The fix is the diet in this guide: lean staple, taper the insects, fill up on greens, cut the treats.

Weigh hatchlings and juveniles regularly on a small kitchen scale — steady weekly gain is what you want — and weigh adults monthly to catch creep early. The scale doesn't lie the way "he looks fine" does.

Special cases: brumation, breeding, and illness

Three situations change the feeding rules, so they're worth flagging:

• ◆Brumation. Many adult dragons enter a hibernation-like dormancy, often in cooler months, where they go off food for weeks. A healthy brumating dragon losing little weight is normal — don't force-feed it. But never let a dragon brumate with food sitting undigested in its gut: cooling temps stop digestion and the food can rot internally. Stop feeding and let the gut clear (a warm bath helps) before temps drop. A dragon that's losing weight fast, is new/young, or seems sick is a vet question, not a brumation.
• ◆Breeding females. A gravid (egg-carrying) female has a huge calcium demand — she's building shelled eggs out of her own reserves — so this is the one time to push calcium hard and offer extra protein. Underfeed calcium here and she'll pull it from her bones and crash.
• ◆Recovery and illness. A thin, recovering, or convalescing dragon is the legitimate use case for the fat feeders I otherwise warn against — waxworms and superworms can put weight on fast — ideally with a vet guiding the plan. Likewise a sick dragon often wants soft, easy, hydrating food (hornworms, silkworms) over a tough cricket.

These are the exceptions that prove the everyday rule: the standard diet is lean-staple-plus-variety-plus-greens, and you only deviate for a specific, identifiable reason.

Transitioning a dragon onto a new staple

Dragons can be stubborn about new food, and a dragon that's been raised on crickets or — worse — on a fat treat like superworms may eye a roach with suspicion at first. Make the switch gradual:

1. ◆Mix the new feeder in. Offer one or two discoids alongside the feeders your dragon already accepts. Familiarity with the texture and movement comes first.
2. ◆Use movement and tongs. Roaches move less frantically than crickets, so a hesitant dragon sometimes ignores them. Wiggling one with feeding tongs triggers the predatory response and gets the first bite.
3. ◆Shift the ratio over a week or two. Slowly tilt the mix toward the new staple while phasing the old feeder down, so the gut adjusts without upset.
4. ◆Don't negotiate with a treat-addict. If your dragon is holding out for superworms, it is not going to starve by waiting a day for better food. A healthy dragon will take the staple once it accepts that the treats aren't coming. (A dragon that genuinely won't eat for an extended stretch is a vet question, not a willpower one.)
5. ◆Keep size and dusting correct throughout. Same eye-spacing rule, same calcium dusting — the transition changes the species, not the safety rules.

The feeding mistakes I see most

Most diet problems aren't exotic. They're the same handful of errors, repeated:

• ◆Relying on one feeder. Even a great staple isn't a complete diet. No variety, no greens, eventually a deficiency. Rotate, and feed the greens.
• ◆Skipping calcium because "the feeder has a good ratio." It doesn't — almost none of them do. Dust. This is the MBD mistake.
• ◆Forgetting UVB. All the calcium in the world does nothing without D3, and most D3 should come from proper UVB lighting. No UVB is a slow path to MBD even with perfect dusting.
• ◆Feeding too big. Wider than the eyes is the impaction line. When unsure, smaller.
• ◆Overfeeding fatty treats. Superworms, waxworms, and mealworms as everyday food make fat, sick dragons. Treats stay treats.
• ◆Feeding adults like juveniles. The single most common husbandry-driven obesity cause. Adults are greens-first with a modest insect serving.
• ◆Wild-caught insects. Pesticides, parasites, pathogens — never feed bugs you caught outside. Source captive-bred feeders.
• ◆Ignoring hydration. Dragons get a lot of water from food. Watery feeders like hornworms, moisture-rich greens, and the occasional bath all help.

Avoid those eight and you're already feeding better than most keepers.

The short version

Build the diet on a soft, high-protein, moderate-fat staple roach — discoids (Blaberus discoidalis) for southern-US and Florida keepers, dubia where they're legal — and rotate the supporting cast on top: BSFL and silkworms for calcium and gentleness, crickets for variety, hornworms for hydration, superworms and waxworms only as rare treats. Size every feeder no wider than the space between the eyes, dust with calcium (the one feeder that needs it less is BSFL), gut-load 24–48 hours before feeding, run good UVB so the calcium actually absorbs, and feed by age — insect-heavy as a baby, greens-dominant as an adult. Do that and you'll skip the big three pet-dragon diseases — obesity, fatty liver, and metabolic bone disease — almost entirely, which is the whole point.

For the deeper picture on bone disease and supplementation, the Merck Veterinary Manual's section on bearded dragon nutrition and metabolic bone disease is a solid, non-commercial reference, and the University of Florida's entomology and nematology department is a reliable source on feeder-insect and invasive-species questions if you're sorting out what's legal to keep where you live.

Want to run your own clean, quiet, self-sustaining feeder supply? See my full discoid roach breeding and care playbook, or browse the complete exotic animal care library for the rest of the feeders and species covered here.